PURA VIDA (7.2.08)
On the second wave
I discovered the draw
the appeal
of this shanty town.
Alexander
Un Poco Loco
but spiritual, connected...
his encouragement helped me stand.
There is nothing that feels
like the push, the pull
of a slow, steady break
under your board.
Standing, riding, falling, crashing
kids screaming
"Mio! Mio! GO GO GO!!!"
Competing for waves, yet encouraging.
How can I arrange my life
to spend each day
making love with the ocean,
riding her waves?
Reminding me of the light
my light
Alexander speaks of this beautiful life
in a way that only a surfer can.
Now I see
Standing on my board
in the moment before I fall,
I am living the Pura Vida.
BEAUTY IN THE BREAKDOWN (7.3.08)
Smash!
Again...
My body hits the water
and the wave takes my board.
Here it comes
the perfect Ola,
"Go Baby! Hit it!" yells Pis.
"Up! Up! Up!"
Smash!
Again...
Kiss my board
and paddle out again.
Where is yesterday's groove?
Trying too hard
body exhausted
frustrated.
Not as cool
as I wish I was.
Everyone catching waves
but me.
Smash!
Again...
Feet off center.
Am I really goofy?
"Will I ever be good?"
I ask this man...
My very own god
of surfing.
"Yes baby! Practice."
Talk of feet
and the right board to buy.
Who am I
to judge myself?
Each time I smash down
a judgment.
But why?
One
Beautiful
Ride...
All the way to shore.
One step forward
on my soft top
long board.
Beautiful.
No judgment.
Just
determination.
Practice.
I am reminded
of the great
POWER
of the sea.
I hear development is coming
to this...
my beautiful
Playa Negra.
Too much beauty here
even when I can't stand.
Even when I SMASH
down.
My heart is here
This beautiful
humbling
sea.
I will return
after
a million bed jumps
and see for myself
The importance
the
Beauty
of my breakdown.
JUNGLE FLYER (7.4.08)
Ouch!
A fire ant bites my foot
momentarily
distracting me from my fear
Stepping to the edge
I realize there is
NO
turning back
"AAAHHHH!!!!! YEEEEEEE!!!!"
The first high-pitched cry
of the
elusive Cara monkey.
Then a test of the
breaks...
I...
fail...
Clipped to the tree with 5-year old William
I wait for
Randi
My tandem jungle flyer.
Marty snaps great shots
one
of my arrival on the
wobbly platform.
The Frenchman
laughs
as I
Squeal!
Only two to go
long hike over
taste of ginger
and whatever the French call machismo
On my own this time
so close to the jungle floor
no longer soaring
above the lush canopy.
Upside down!
The Cara monkey
no longer fearful
flips to prove herself.
Clinging to Randi
for one last aerial dance
we fly
to the final platform.
Tired
Thirsty
Buzzing
with energy
"Again?"
the Frenchman
awaits
back at platform 1
"Never!"
I reply
rinsing my hands
with a hose.
Then, finally-water and
Juicy
Sweet
Pineapple.
HAIKU (7.5.08)
Standing up proud
nothing feels quite like this
riding las olas.
HAIKU (7.6.08)
Sweet tender passion
more beautiful is kissing
than la playa here.
On the second wave
I discovered the draw
the appeal
of this shanty town.
Alexander
Un Poco Loco
but spiritual, connected...
his encouragement helped me stand.
There is nothing that feels
like the push, the pull
of a slow, steady break
under your board.
Standing, riding, falling, crashing
kids screaming
"Mio! Mio! GO GO GO!!!"
Competing for waves, yet encouraging.
How can I arrange my life
to spend each day
making love with the ocean,
riding her waves?
Reminding me of the light
my light
Alexander speaks of this beautiful life
in a way that only a surfer can.
Now I see
Standing on my board
in the moment before I fall,
I am living the Pura Vida.
BEAUTY IN THE BREAKDOWN (7.3.08)
Smash!
Again...
My body hits the water
and the wave takes my board.
Here it comes
the perfect Ola,
"Go Baby! Hit it!" yells Pis.
"Up! Up! Up!"
Smash!
Again...
Kiss my board
and paddle out again.
Where is yesterday's groove?
Trying too hard
body exhausted
frustrated.
Not as cool
as I wish I was.
Everyone catching waves
but me.
Smash!
Again...
Feet off center.
Am I really goofy?
"Will I ever be good?"
I ask this man...
My very own god
of surfing.
"Yes baby! Practice."
Talk of feet
and the right board to buy.
Who am I
to judge myself?
Each time I smash down
a judgment.
But why?
One
Beautiful
Ride...
All the way to shore.
One step forward
on my soft top
long board.
Beautiful.
No judgment.
Just
determination.
Practice.
I am reminded
of the great
POWER
of the sea.
I hear development is coming
to this...
my beautiful
Playa Negra.
Too much beauty here
even when I can't stand.
Even when I SMASH
down.
My heart is here
This beautiful
humbling
sea.
I will return
after
a million bed jumps
and see for myself
The importance
the
Beauty
of my breakdown.
JUNGLE FLYER (7.4.08)
Ouch!
A fire ant bites my foot
momentarily
distracting me from my fear
Stepping to the edge
I realize there is
NO
turning back
"AAAHHHH!!!!! YEEEEEEE!!!!"
The first high-pitched cry
of the
elusive Cara monkey.
Then a test of the
breaks...
I...
fail...
Clipped to the tree with 5-year old William
I wait for
Randi
My tandem jungle flyer.
Marty snaps great shots
one
of my arrival on the
wobbly platform.
The Frenchman
laughs
as I
Squeal!
Only two to go
long hike over
taste of ginger
and whatever the French call machismo
On my own this time
so close to the jungle floor
no longer soaring
above the lush canopy.
Upside down!
The Cara monkey
no longer fearful
flips to prove herself.
Clinging to Randi
for one last aerial dance
we fly
to the final platform.
Tired
Thirsty
Buzzing
with energy
"Again?"
the Frenchman
awaits
back at platform 1
"Never!"
I reply
rinsing my hands
with a hose.
Then, finally-water and
Juicy
Sweet
Pineapple.
HAIKU (7.5.08)
Standing up proud
nothing feels quite like this
riding las olas.
HAIKU (7.6.08)
Sweet tender passion
more beautiful is kissing
than la playa here.
